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For several years Paris has organized Les Heures Heureuse on three evenings in late June. Participating restaurants offer a tiny gourmet plate for 2 euros, and a glass of wine or beer for another 2 euros. Diners can eat and drink their way through a neighborhood the same way Spaniards traditionally do tapas. Last year I had a great time on my own in the 14ème, around métro Alésia. This year Antoine agreed to join me in the 15ème, starting at métro Félix Faure. I had explored the area in May, and found the complete absence of tourists rather charming.

Art deco apartment building at métro Félix Faure in the 15ème.

Art deco apartment building at métro Félix Faure in the 15ème.

Horse butcher shop in the 15ème.

Horse butcher shop in the 15ème.

Antoine, however, dismissed the quarter as being merely Français moyen — boringly average. Just ordinary French people going about their daily affairs! This pleased me but bored Antoine: Chacun à son goût !

We did agree that two of the restaurants we visited were quite pleasant — Restaurant Jadis and Le Beurre Noisette — although Antoine demurred at my suggestion that we try them out for real meals during my next stay.

Bob and Antoine at Restaurant Jadis, in the 15ème.

Bob and Antoine at Restaurant Jadis, in the 15ème.

A tasty bite and a glass of wine at Le Beurre Noisette, in the 15ème.

A tasty bite and a glass of wine at Le Beurre Noisette, in the 15ème.

We ended the evening with a couple of glasses … of water … on Antoine’s fabulous roof deck in Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

Bob and Antoine on his fabulous roof deck in Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

Bob and Antoine on his fabulous roof deck in Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

I had neglected to bring champagne this year, but I was reminded of a similar moment a few years back when champagne flowed more freely.

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