For several years Paris has organized Les Heures Heureuse on three evenings in late June. Participating restaurants offer a tiny gourmet plate for 2 euros, and a glass of wine or beer for another 2 euros. Diners can eat and drink their way through a neighborhood the same way Spaniards traditionally do tapas. Last year I had a great time on my own in the 14ème, around métro Alésia. This year Antoine agreed to join me in the 15ème, starting at métro Félix Faure. I had explored the area in May, and found the complete absence of tourists rather charming.
Antoine, however, dismissed the quarter as being merely Français moyen — boringly average. Just ordinary French people going about their daily affairs! This pleased me but bored Antoine: Chacun à son goût !
We did agree that two of the restaurants we visited were quite pleasant — Restaurant Jadis and Le Beurre Noisette — although Antoine demurred at my suggestion that we try them out for real meals during my next stay.
We ended the evening with a couple of glasses … of water … on Antoine’s fabulous roof deck in Saint-Germain-des-Prés.
I had neglected to bring champagne this year, but I was reminded of a similar moment a few years back when champagne flowed more freely.