On Friday I roused Rafael around noon and we enjoyed leftovers of his chicken dinner as lunch (for me) and breakfast (for him). After he took care of some details for his father’s visit we strolled over to (you guessed it) the Open Café to people-watch, read and have a few drinks. Heriberto, who we had met the previous evening, happened by so we invited him to join us as well.
Our first evening event was Vivaldi’s Four Seasons at Sainte Chappelle. It was a rousing performance in one of the most gorgeous spaces in the world.
As we strolled back to my neighborhood for dinner I noticed how atmospheric the Seine was near dusk under an overcast sky.
We ate at an old favorite of mine, Aux Trois Petits Cochons (the Three Little Pigs). [Update: Then on rue Tiquitonne, Aux Trois Petits Cochons moved in 2014 to Montmartre.] The meal was delicious as usual, but I noticed for the first time that most of the diners were tourists, perhaps because the prices were a bit high for regular dining. Rafael and I agreed, however, that the fetish of avoiding the “tourist track” can be overdone. Towards the end of the meal we got into a conversation with two women at the next table. It turned out that they were a lesbian couple from England on their honeymoon. We did our best to help them find a compatible bar to continue their evening.
We finished our evening at a little bar in my block that I had been curious about for several weeks. It has a stylish little brass sign reading, “Experimental Cocktail Club” (in English) and thick curtains that keep you from seeing the interior. I asked the friendly bouncer what was inside and he jokingly said, “C’est dangereux !” Rafael and I decided to take the plunge anyway. What we found was a cheerful young crowd, all or mostly straight; tasty albeit pricy (12 euro) cocktails; and a terrific dj spinning a mix of jazz and jazzy American classics.
The joint was still jumping past midnight but our beds beckoned…